Fashion Ads Don'T "Advert". What Do They Play?

If fashion show is a way for designers to show their thoughts, cooperation with photographers can bring together those strange ideas into a story.

Ralph Lauren and Bruce Weber, Gianni Versace and Rid Avedon, and Yves Saint Laurent and Yves are excellent examples.

The most meaningful collaboration between photographers and fashion designers today is probably Marc Jacobs and Juergen Teller.

The German photographer is famous for shooting unadorned models. Since his collaboration with Marc Jacobs in 1997, he has presented a large number of celebrities inadvertently in advertisements, which can reliably record the current interest and fashion.

Recently, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery in New York held his exhibition.

The Marc Jacobs 08 spring summer advertisement, modeled on Victoria Beckham, was used by the photographer Juergen Teller. Many people were enthusiastic about advertisements when they read magazines.

Speaking of this spring, they must be familiar with the beauty of the Dior advertisement in the black striped white striped coat, the disco party on the Amazon D&G River, the beauties and beauties of Burberry, and the fairies in Lanvin.

In this spectacle of dreams, Victoria Beckham opened her pointed elbow and appeared as an uninvited guest.

In the Marc Jacobs 08 spring and summer advertisement with Victoria Beckham as the model, the former Spice Girl, who married the football star David Beckham, was once the focus of the British media for a long time before her husband moved to the United States.

She is not a traditional beauty. However, in the eyes of Juergen Teller, she played a good role in shooting advertisements for Marc Jacobs.

She did not look like a brilliant star, but gave up a living prop of herself completely.

In that unsettling picture, we saw her hiding in a huge shopping bag specially made by Jacobs, revealing only a pair of bare legs with high-heeled shoes.

The Marc Jacobs 08 spring summer advertisement, modeled on Victoria Beckham, is handled by photographer Juergen Teller. "I know this is not going to be the kind of movie on Vogue."

"I understand," she said at a telephone interview in her home in Losangeles. "I must put myself in their hands completely."

In September last year, when Jacobs made the first suggestion to her, she had a long talk with it, and then met Teller again.

Teller used his typical, mixed appeal and frank style to confront Bei's worries.

"I told her," you are the most photographed woman in the world.

When it comes to today's fashion industry, everything it contains is products - handbags and shoes - you themselves are a product in a sense, aren't you? '

Then she said, "ah...

Right? "

Teller recalled.

Mr. Bei began to estimate the risk of this cooperation.

"People will always talk about what Marc has done recently."

She thought.

Juergen Teller photographed the famous model Lara Stone, Louis Vuitton advertising, how the photographer tells stories. If fashion show is a way for designers to show their thoughts, then cooperation with photographers can make his strange ideas become a story.

Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein all owe Bruce Weber a favor - the latter is really a good storyteller.

Gianni Versace has frequently paid tribute to Rid Avedon, because he gave Versace an imaginative power to design.

If Helmut Newton did not show Yves Saint Laurent's smoking suit as a sexy mystery, then the women who wear it from generation to generation will probably change their view of it.

Juergen Teller and movie star Charlotte Rampling appear naked in Louis fifteen. Today, the most meaningful cooperation between photographers and fashion designers is probably Jacobs and Teller.

Their collaboration began in 1997 when the singer Kim Gordon dressed in Lavender pink chiffon dress was photographed.

Since then, credible records of current interest and fashion have always been found in Marc Jacobs's advertising blockbusters, though Jacobs claims that it is only "clothes that I know and are interested in wearing my designs."

Juergen Teller's director Sofia Coppola appeared in this series of advertisements with surprising numbers of celebrities.

In general, they do nothing, just like the characters in the TV series "sung Fei Chuan" - just lying on the grass, jumping up and down, or teasing the squirrels.

The group included directors Sofia Coppola, child star Dakota Fanning, photographer William Eggleston and movie star Winona Ryder - she was just tried for burglary shortly after receiving trial.

Even Teller himself appeared in the advertisement - he wore a wig and made up his make-up, took a photo with the photographer Cindy Sherman. Another time, he was bold and naked in the group photo with the movie star Charlotte Rampling.

Juergen Teller takes Marc Jacobs advertising as a model star Winona Ryder, taking the Winona theft scandal as a prototype, Juergen Teller as a model of Juergen Winona Ryder as a model of the ad campaign, taking the theft scandal as a prototype. "These cooperation has always been free."

Teller said.

The German photographer is now living in London with his wife Sadie Coles and his little son Ed.

Teller this person is extremely playful and lively.

He is good at telling dirty jokes, and he is also very sensitive. He filmed a lot of pictures for his son Ed.

His son seemed to live off his feet.

Jefferson Hack, editor in chief of Dazed & Confused, describes him as a shy, obscure German boy who is always run by models. You can hardly imagine what he was like now, but it is not impossible.

Teller then went on: "Marc and I discussed it.

"Oh, it would be great if you could get that man."

He introduced me to Sofia Coppola.

I thought to myself, "Oh, if I could shoot her, it would be really great."

Then Marc said, "OK, why don't we shoot a handbag advertisement?"

So when I met at the Mercer Hotel, I said, "it looks like it's going to snow. Let's go to Central Park to shoot the advertisement."

You see, I try to create that feeling -- what does she do with the handbag?

Isn't it?

It has to be a real life story - you get out of the taxi and go around the park instead of finding a model lying on the sand and putting a bag on it.

Er... "

He laughed.

"In this set of scenes, we suddenly ran into a group of squirrels.

Sofia stretched out the hand of the bag. I photographed the scene -- the squirrels were watching her and her bag.

Juergen Teller is an advertisement for Marc Jacobs. Juergen Teller is an advertisement for Marc Jacobs. Although the advertisements have gained tremendous influence, in the case of Teller, why is that excessive sensitivity and a lot of blankness going to be imitated everywhere? He is still a bit obscure. Unlike most photographers in the commercial and Art Circles, the Teller camera is just a Contax with a flash, and he has only one assistant.

Hack believes that his advertising means "runs counter to everyone else".

He also pointed out that as a young brand, the image of Marc Jacobs should be somewhat disrespectful and interesting.

"No tradition needs to be followed and nothing to be overturned."

He said.

No doubt, these advertisements themselves do not sell anything.

"They are not pictures that can cause desire," Jacobs said, pointing to the photo taken by Cindy Sherman. She and Teller two looked like a pair of stout brothers and sisters.

"You can't look at them and say," Oh,...

That skirt is so tempting. "

However, Dennis Freedman, the creative director of W magazine, has published Teller photography for many years. He maintains that these advertisements can be completely comparable with the achievements of Ralph Lauren and Bruce Weber.

"Ralph created a perfect world for his customers," says Freedman. "Marc creates a world around him, and everything he does is mysterious.

This is a great temptation for anyone who thinks he understands it. "

The art dealer Barbara Gladstone has the same opinion as Freedman.

Jacobs and Teller are all her friends.

"These ads are really for those who can understand," she said.

And I think Marc and Juergen will be happy to simply ignore those who can't understand. "

In this sense, the purchase of Marc Jacobs is like designing a club.

Of course, this move will naturally exclude some people, but unless Jacobs himself has to make some commentaries for advertisements, he can not understand those who are unable to understand, otherwise he will not mind.

Since some of the pictures do not clearly see the clothes themselves, it is obvious that he has no intention.

Juergen Teller's preference for oversensitive techniques, self-confidence and freedom, you may be unable to resist, look at this huge advertising photo for ten years. Why did no other designer invent such a charming and original way of expression?

One explanation is that they do not have the Jacobs level of self-confidence.

Similarly, no photographer can be free to play the degree of Teller.

Every season when he starts working with Jacobs, designers never try to direct him.

In recent years, the cooperation between Teller and magazines is less and less.

"Magazines are becoming commercialized and tense, and editors have to bear too much."

He said, "I am now more willing to work with some good customers, such as Helmute Lang, Wakubo Rei and Marc Jacobs.

I can communicate directly with designers.

They only do what they want, and they know exactly what they want. This kind of cooperation is very enjoyable, and the effect is very good.

Most other brands do not do this - they send the list to the advertising agency, the advertising agency comes up with a plan, and then a photographer performs it, which is boring.

"It's that simple," Jacobs said. "I'll follow him.

So he went away to do his work.

Then we'll look at the photos together and discuss them. "

He grinned and added, "Juergen himself is the greatest admirer of Juergen Teller.

Usually, I will always receive his call after the shooting. "

Jacobs learned German accent. "The photo is wonderful. It's really great."

I think he uses the word "excellent" very much.

In this regard, Teller also does not deny.

However, it is because of his sense of humor, the secret way he photographed, and his unusual attitude towards shame that you can easily underestimate the value of his work.

As Hack said, "as a good man, Juergen is very interesting.

But I think he is an extremely serious artist. "

Teller and Charlotte Rampling wearing silver sports pants in "Louis fifteen" Charlotte Rampling in the "Louis fifteen" unadornment of the original appearance of life "shameless" is the face of our current life.

It obviously is torturing celebrities and people who aspiring to be famous, but it also inspires and liberate artists.

The shooting of movie star Charlotte Rampling took place in a hotel suite in Paris.

Rampling did not want to endorse any specific product, so Teller thought he had better take part in the photo - they were friends.

For a vague reverie in his mind, he also gained 15 pounds.

"I want to have the size of Louis fifteen."

He said.

The only difficulty with this plan is that he can't put on Jacobs's clothes at last.

I thought, what can I do next?

I looked at a silver underwear in front of me, and a pair of sports trousers.

Telle